How To Make “Little Missy” Macrame Purse

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Many of you have asked “how do I close up the bottom of a macrame purse?” And though I do already have basic directions posted on how to do this, I thought I would do another tutorial and provide detailed illustrations to make the steps clearer.

And the best part…

You get the tutorial for the entire purse, not just closing up the bottom. Two for One.

This is the Little Missy Purse I have mentioned before. I have made and sold quite a few. Cute little purse for a precious little girl to carry her allowance in. Fast and easy to make.

I am doing mine in two different colors to illustrate the joining of sides and how to close up the bottom.

Ready? OK, let’s get started.

First, the supplies list.


Supplies/Tools Needed

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6mm braided macrame cord (I am using brown and cream)
two 3″ D shaped plastic Marbella rings
ruler/yardstick/tape measure
scissors
craft glue
macrame board (or covered ceiling tile)
T pins


Instructions: How to Make Little Missy Purse

Cut 12 cords 40″ long – brown.
Cut 12 cords 40″ long – cream.
Or 24 cords all one color.

Melt the cord ends slightly with lighter or matches to keep from fraying. Don’t hold fire to cord long. Just a nanosecond. Could burn cord. You can see in this photo the fraying that happens as you work with the cord, IF you do not melt the tips first.

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Find centers of six brown and six cream cords and pin to macrame board. (Set aside the balance of the cut cords for later.)

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Lark’s Head 6 brown cords to the 1st D ring.

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Notice the “knobs” formed on the backside. You will be working from the knobless side.

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You will now begin tying macrame knots. Mostly Square Knots (SK) will be used in this project.

Starting on the left, number cords from 1-12.

Row 1. Tie one Square Knot (SK) with cords 1-4, 5-8, 9-12.

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There are now 3 Square Knots in this row.

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Row 2. Tie a SK with cords 3-6 and 7-10.

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Find the center of one of the extra 40″ brown cords. These will be called the “add on” cords. Place it next to the FIRST cord on the left. Find the center of another 40″ brown cords. Place it next to the LAST cord on the right.

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Tie a Square Knot (SK) with the new cord just added and cords 1 and 2. (The new cord when folded in half becomes two cords to work with.)

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Pull down on the loop formed, smooth it out.

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Repeat this by tying a SK with the new cord added on the right plus cords 11 and 12.

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This row now has 4 Square Knots.

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Renumber cords 1-16.

Row 3. Tie SK’s with cords 3-6, 7-10, 11-14.

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Repeat the “add on” process. Same as you did for Row 2.

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This row now has 5 SK’s.

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Renumber cords 1-20.

Row 4. Tie SK’s with cords 3-6, 7-10, 11-14, 15-18.

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Repeat the “add on” process.

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This row now has 6 Square Knots. Renumber cords 1-24.

Set aside Side 1.


Now you will work Side 2. Repeat all steps to attach cords to the 2nd D ring. Do all steps up to the 6 SK’s in Row 4. Number cords 1-24.

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Now lay both sides side-by-side on macrame board to join the two.

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Tie SK with cords 23 and 24 from Side 1 plus cords 1 and 2 from Side 2.

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This one SK starts the next row. Row 5.

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Renumber cords 1-48.

Now, to finish Row 5, tie SK’s with cords 3-6, 7-10, 11-14, 15-18, 19-22 (skip 23-26, knot is already there), 27-30, 31-34, 35-38, 39-42, 43-46.

Row 5 now has 11 Square Knots (SK).

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Now join sides together to work purse in a tube, in the round. Unpin Side 1 from macrame board and place it next to Side 2.

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Tie one SK with the last two cords on the left and the first two cords on the right. See photo for assistance.

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This completes Row 5. It now has 12 SK’s.


Begin tying in the round.

Row 6. Starting with cords 1-4, tie one SK.

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Go all around, tying in the round. These are called Alternating Square Knots (ASK) since you are tying a knot with 2 cords from the above SK and 2 cords from the above adjacent SK. (12 SK’s)

Row 7. Tie one row of ASK’s. Go all around. Don’t tie with the same cords as in Row 6. (12 SK’s)

This is how your Little Missy purse should look after 7 rows.

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Row 8. Tie one row of ASK’s. Go all around. Don’t tie with the same cords as in Row 7. (12 SK’s)

Row 9. Tie one row of ASK’s. Go all around. Don’t tie with the same cords as in Row 8. (12 SK’s)

Row 10. Tie one row of ASK’s. Go all around. Don’t tie with the same cords as in Row 9. Make sure to tie each knot tight. (12 SK’s)

This is how your purse should look after 10 rows.

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Closing Up the Bottom of Purse

Turn purse inside out.

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The “knobs” up near the D rings will now be on the outside.

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Locate Cords 1 and 48. Tie an Overhand Knot on cord ends to identify later. Do the same with Cords 24 and 25.

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Turn purse sideways or fit between your knees. Divide cords into 24 and 24. Front and Back cords.

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Use the cords with Overhand Knots on the ends as your guide.

Tie a Square Knot with no filler cords with Cords 48 and 1. Just those two cords.

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Push cords out of your way. Tie a SK with the NEXT TWO CORDS FROM THE LEFT and THE NEXT TWO CORDS FROM THE RIGHT.

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Pull on the filler cords to tighten knot. Continue tying knots this way. Two from one side and two from the other until you reach the last 2 cords. They have Overhand Knots on the ends. Tie a Square Knot with no filler cords with just those two cords.

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All knot tying is now complete.

OK, let’s do a check of the closing knots. You should have one SK (no filler) in one corner, 11 SK along the bottom of the purse and one SK (no filler) in the other corner.

Here is a bottom view of the closing knots.

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And a flat view of the closing knots.

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Make sure you pulled down on all filler cords. So the bottom will look as smooth as possible.

Trim each cord to about an inch. Melt the cut ends with a lighter or match to prevent fraying. Touch cord lightly so not to burn.

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Turn purse inside out. “Knobs” along the top of the D ring should now be back on the inside.

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Apply craft glue to each knot from the inside of the purse. Allow to dry. Shape the bottom.

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Push down on the knots from the inside. Purse should be able to stand up on its own. (This is the craft glue I used.)

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Embellish, if desired, with buttons, bows, ribbon. You can even add a lining inside.

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You are finished!! Enjoy!!

Purse Measurements: 6 1/4″ length, 7 1/2″ height, 1 1/4″ width (at the widest point, the bottom)


Note: These instructions for closing up the bottom of a macrame purse will work with a large purse, too. You will just have more SK’s to tie.

Tuesday’s Tutorial: Stocking Stuffer For The Bookworm

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Today’s tutorial is a Macrame Bookmark perfect for a student or someone who loves to read or write. It has a Winter theme with snowflakes and Snowmen and would make a great Christmas stocking stuffer.


Supplies/Tools Needed to Make Bookmark

  • 6 yards of 2mm braided macrame cord
  • 4 medium sized buttons with 2 holes
  • 2 silver snowflakes
  • scissors
  • ruler/tape measure/yardstick
  • large hole metal tapestry needle

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Directions to Make Macrame Bookmark

Step 1.

Cut 1 cord 1 1/2 yards long. (Filler cord)
Cut 1 cord 4 1/2 yards long. (Tying cord)

Step 2 – Adding Buttons and Snowflake.

Find the center of the 1 1/2 yard cord.

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String one end of cord through the 1st button, silver snowflake and 2nd button. Center so cord ends measure evenly. (See photo)

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Pull cords tight so buttons fit tight against silver snowflake like a sandwich.

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Step 3 – Adding Tying Cord.

Find center of 4 1/2 yard cord and position it UNDER the filler cords. Tie one Square Knot (SK) with the tying cords, the longer cords. Slide knot up close to the buttons.

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Step 4 – Tying the top Square Knot Button.

Drop down 1/4″ and tie a Square Knot Button consisting of 7 square knots. In a row. This is called a Sinnet. SK Button will hold a pen or pencil.

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Take filler cords (the middle cords) and go up and through the holes created. Front to back. Pull down to form a Square Knot Button.

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Tie one SK under the SK Button to secure it.

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Step 5 – Tying Square Knot Sinnet.

Tie 12″ of square knots. In a row. One after the other.

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Step 6 – Tying the Bottom Square Knot Button.

Drop down 1/4″ and tie a Square Knot Button consisting of 7 square knots. Same as you did in Step 4.

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Tie TWO square knots under the SK Button.

That completes the knot tying and now you will bury all cords except ONE FILLER CORD. That cord will be used to string the last buttons and silver snowflake. Using the large hole metal needle, bury one cord at a time, from the back, going up through the knotwork. (See photo)

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Step 7 – Adding Bottom Buttons and Snowflake.

String cord through buttons and silver snowflake per the photo. Pull cords tight so buttons fit tight against the silver snowflake like a sandwich.

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Step 8.

To finish off cord end: Tie around base of the cord or hand sew together. Trim cord end.

All done. Finished and ready to enjoy for yourself or to give as a gift.

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Bookmark measures 14″.

Variations: Make longer or shorter by adjusting cord lengths. Use whatever buttons or decorations preferred. Omit bottom square knot button if wish.

Tuesday’s Tutorial: New Brown Plant Hanger

Time To Bring The Plants In.

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Don’t know about you. But in my area, survival of ANY plant meant it needed to come inside. WEEKS ago!!

Here’s a little something perfect for them to hang in.


Supplies/Tools Needed to Make Brown Plant Hanger

  • 65 yards macrame cord (5-6mm braided or twisted, your choice)
  • Two 4″ welded metal rings (preferably treated, not raw metal)
  • One 2″ welded metal ring (preferable treated, not raw metal)
  • 8 medium size beads (large hole opening)
  • 8 large beads (large hole opening)
  • “S” hook or something to extend plant hanger from
  • yardstick/ruler/measuring tape
  • scissors

Directions to Make Brown Plant Hanger

Step 1.

Cut 16 cords 4 yards long.  Cut one cord 1 yard long (for top wrap knot).

Step 2.

Find centers of all 4 yard cords and loop them through the 2″ welded ring.  Hold them tight in your hand and using the 1 yard cord, tie a 1″ Wrap Knot.

Step 3.

Divide cords into 8 groups of 4 cords each. Begin tying Square Knots (SK) with one group. Tie a Sinnet of 6 SK’s. Continue with the rest of the groupings.

Step 4.

Half Hitch (HH) all cords to one of the 4″ welded rings.

Step 5 – Adding Medium Size Beads.

Tie a 2 SK Sinnet with each cord grouping. (Stay with the same cord groupings as created in Step 3.)  Add one medium size bead to all 4 cords in that group. Tie ANOTHER 2 SK Sinnet with the SAME group you just added the bead to. Continue with this process for the rest of the groupings.

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Step 6 – Tying Half Knot Sinnet.

Drop down 1 3/4″ and tie a Half Knot (HK) Sinnet of 18 HK’s with one group of 4 cords.  (Stay with the same cord groupings as created in Step 3.)  Your cord will start to twist. That’s OK. It is supposed to do that. Continue with the rest of the groupings.

Step 7 – Adding Large Beads.

Add one large bead to all 4 cords in each group. IMPORTANT: Switch tying cords. Your longer middle filler cords will now become the outside tying cords.  This saves on macrame cord. Otherwise you would have to cut longer cords.

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Step 8.

Tie a Half Knot (HK) Sinnet of 18 HK’s with each group.  (Stay with the same cord groupings as created in Step 3.)

Step 9 – Forming the Cradle.

Drop down 4″. Tie ONE ROW of Alternating Square Knots (ASK).

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This just means you will tie knots with 2 cords from one grouping and 2 cords from the next grouping. (Not all cords from the same group.) Go all around the entire plant hanger. You should have 8 knots.

Drop down 3″. Tie one row of ASK’s but with 2 SK Sinnet. Continue around. You should end up with 8 groups of 2 knots each.

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Step 10 – Finishing.

Drop down 2″. Half Hitch (HH) all cords to the last 4″ welded ring.

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Trim cord ends as desired. Cut evenly across or stagger ends, your choice.  Tie an Overhand Knot in each cord end OR melt the tips to prevent from unraveling. Touch cord lightly to melt. Do not burn or scorch the cord.

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All done!! Congrats. Plant hanger measures 40″.

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I am assuming you already have some knowledge of how to tie knots.

You need to know how to tie the following basic knots:

  • Step 2.  Wrap Knot
  • Step 3.  Square Knot and SK Sinnet
  • Step 4.  Half Hitch
  • Step 6.  Half Knot and HK Sinnet
  • Step 9.  Alternating Square Knot

Tuesday’s Tutorial: Zig-Zag Headband

Yes, I know, today is Thursday. 😀

My Tuesday was spent in the doctor’s office (twice) and then the rest of the day, I was fighting with the sun (lack there of) trying to take over 200 pictures of my completed headbands. I slept most of Wednesday since I was dead tired.

Finally, several hours ago, I got a spurt of energy to get started on this tutorial. Better late than never, don’t ya think.

And anyway, this is an easy one. REALLY. Even easier than last week’s. I guess I lied about that one being the easiest. THIS ONE IS!!

Today’s headband has a Zig Zag pattern created by alternating between Square Knots (SK) tied with the “knob” on the left side and then the right. It only works when you use two different colors of macrame cord. You only need a small amount of cord. You could probably use scrap, left-overs, if you have any.

So, go gather your supplies and let’s get started.


Supplies/Tools Needed

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  • 6 yards black 3 1/2mm braided macrame cord
  • 5 yards red 3 1/2mm braided macrame cord
  • macrame board or covered ceiling tile
  • T-pins
  • scissors
  • ruler/tape measure/yardstick
  • large hole steel embroidery needle

Directions to Make One Zig-Zag Macrame Headband

Step 1.

  • Cut one BLACK 4 1/4 yard cord.
  • Cut one BLACK 1 1/2 yard cord.
  • Cut one RED 4 1/4 yard cord.

Step 2.

Pin the cords to macrame board in the following order.

  1. Pick up the black 4 1/4 yard, measure down 32″, pin it to the board. Longest end on the left side.
  2. Pick up the 1 1/2 yard black cord, measure down 15″, pin it next to the black cord already on the board. Straight up. Tie an overhand knot on each cord end.
  3. Pick up the red 4 1/4 yard cord, measure down 32″, pin it next to the “straight up” black cord. Longest end on the right side.

You should have cords lined up as black, black and red. See photo for assistance.

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Step 3.

Using 3 cords as fillers and one left tying cord and one right tying cord, tie one Square Knot (SK) with the KNOB on the left.

Red under, black over, black over, red under.

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Step 4.

Using 3 cords as fillers and one left tying cord and one right tying cord, tie one SK with the KNOB on the RIGHT.

Black under, red over, red over, black under

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Step 5.

Continue tying square knots, alternating between a left knobbed SK and a right knobbed SK until you reach 20-22″ or your desired length.

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Step 6 – Burying Cord Ends.

You will bury all cord ends EXCEPT for the one black cord with the overhand knot tied on the end. The filler cord.

Using the embroidery needle, start weaving your way up the knotwork. One knot at a time, to bury the cord ends. See photos.

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You will bury 4 cords. I do 2 on the front side and 2 on the back side.

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Trim buried cord ends.

Step 7.

Now determine the length you wish the back closure ties to be. Cut, tie overhand knots on the ends. Tie a bow in the back.

Congrats!! All done!! Here’s a picture of completed headband.

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Just kidding!! I was feeling kind of silly. But, ya know, this headband would look cute in a box, given to a special person for Valentine’s Day. In red and white.

Here’s the real one. It measures 21″. Enjoy!!

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Tuesday’s Tutorial: How To Macrame A Headband

Today’s tutorial will show you how to make a headband with two different closures. Back 1 and Back 2.

I am using 3 1/2 mm braided macrame cord since that is what I prefer to work with for headbands, belts and purses.

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This is the headband I will make today. Like this one but with different color dice. You will have a choice of closing the back with a slide closure (Back 1) or with an elastic ponytail holder (Back 2). I have labeled the photos as such where necessary.

OK. Ready? Pick a back closure and let’s get started.


Supplies/Tools Needed

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  • 15 yards of 3 1/2mm braided macrame cord
  • beads or other adornments
  • macrame board or covered ceiling tile
  • T-pins
  • ruler/tape measure/yardstick
  • scissors
  • large hole steel embroidery needle
  • ponytail elastic (the thicker, stiffer kind) for Back 2

Directions To Make Macrame Headband (2 closures)

Step 1.

Cut 2 cords 4 yards in length.
Cut 2 cords 3 1/2 yards in length.

Step 2.

Find the center of the two 4 yard cords and mount to macrame board using T-pins.

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Row 1. Tie one Square Knot (SK) with these cords.

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  • Back 1: Leave 1/4″ loops at the top of SK. Don’t pull all the way down.
  • Back 2: Pull down tight on the top to eliminate any loops formed.

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Step 3.

Working with the two 3 1/2 yard cords, measure down 44″ on one side and mount one cord to the left of the SK created in Step 2. Long side on the end. Repeat for the second cord but mount it to the right side of the SK on the macrame board. Long side on the end.

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Row 2. Tie a SK with the 4 cords on the right and a SK with the 4 cords on the left. Number cords 1-8.

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For Back 2, place one end of the ponytail holder UNDER Cords 4 & 5. See photo for assistance.

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Step 4 – Rows 3 through 22 .

Continue tying square knots, alternating between one SK and two SK’s. Row 3=1 SK. Row 4=2 SK’s. Etc. Until you have 22 rows of Alternating Square Knots.

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The last row in this step should have TWO square knots.


Step 5.

Add a dice/bead to Cords 4 & 5.

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Tie 3 rows of alternating square knots under the dice/bead.

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Repeat until six (6) dice/beads have been added.

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Step 6.

Continue alternating rows of square knots, beginning with 2 SK’s under the last dice/bead. Next row, 1 SK, Next row, 2 SK’s. Repeat until you have 22 rows of ASK’s for Back 1 and 21 rows of ASK’s for Back 2.


Step 7 – The Back Closure.

This step shows you two different ways to close up the back. Cords 4 & 5 slide to close for Back 1. Cords 4 & 5 loop around the ponytail holder for Back 2.

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Back 1 Closure. Slide Cords 5 & 6 through the loops created at the top in Step 2. Pull on cords to open and close the back.

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Back 2 Closure. Flip your work so you are working on the underside. Tie one square knot with Cords 3-6 to secure ponytail holder. See photo for assistance.

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Step 8 – Burying Tail Cords.

This completes all knot tying. This next step is the hard part. It probably takes just as long as the knot tying. BUT for a finished look, the extra cords need to be BURIED into the knotwork.

You want to be careful to always go up through a knot to “catch” the cord. You don’t want to undo your knotwork and pull the knot out. Refer to photos for assistance. Work each cord upwards of the knotwork. One cord at a time. You can decide how far to go up. The further up, the better secure the back will be.

Flip your work. You will be working on the backside.


Step 9. Back 2 Closure.

All 8 cords need to be buried. I always start with Cord 5 (not sure why, I just do). Pull Cord 5 through opening of large-hole embroidery needle.

Burying Cord 5.

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Burying Cord 4.

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5 cords buried.

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All 8 cords buried.

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Pull up tight to smooth out. Trim cords close to the knots.

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Step 10. Back 1 Closure.

Bury only Cords 1-3 and 6-8. Cords 4 & 5 are used to slide close the back.

Basically you will follow the same steps as for Back 2, just have two fewer cords to bury.

Burying Cord 7.

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Burying Cord 1.

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6 cords buried.

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Pull up tight to smooth out. Trim cords close to the knots.

Tie overhand knots in Cords 4 & 5, trim ends. Slide to open and close.

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ALL DONE!! Enjoy.

Here’s a photo of both headbands. Completed length for both is 20″.

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Tuesday’s Tutorial: “Cross-Over” Macrame Belt

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Today’s tutorial teaches you a technique for closing the open holes along the outer edges. This one is EASY!! You will be able to take this design and create your own belts.

AND you aren’t limited to just belts. The crossover can be worked into any macrame project for a different look. I am using this method for some of my headbands.

I also used it when creating the black belt I made. It is just wider. I used more cords.


Supplies/Tools Needed

  • 28 yards of 3 1/2mm braided macrame cord
  • 1″ – 1 1/4″ round button
  • 8 small beads for tail cords (optional)
  • macrame board or covered ceiling tile
  • T-Pins
  • tape measure/ruler/yardstick
  • scissors
  • needle/thread to sew on button

Directions to Make Cross-Over Macrame Belt

Step 1.

Cut 2 cords 6 1/2 yards long.
Cut 2 cords 7 1/2 yards long.

Step 2.

Find the centers of the two 6 1/2 yard cords and pin side by side to macrame board.

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Tie one Square Knot (SK). Push knot up close to the top. Pull down on the filler (center) cords to eliminate any loops formed at the top.

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Step 3.

Find the centers of the 7 1/2 yard cords and pin one cord to the left side of SK created in Step 2 and one cord to the right side.

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Tie a SK with the 4 left cords and one SK with the 4 right cords. Number cords 1-8.

Step 4. Tie SK with cords 3-6.

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Step 5. The Cross-Over Step.

Take Cord 1 and CROSSOVER cord 2. Using Cords 2, 1, 3 & 4–tie a SK.

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Take Cord 8 and CROSSOVER cord 7. Using Cords 5,6, 8 and 7–tie a SK.

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Step 6.

Repeat Steps 4 and 5 until you reach the desired waist length. The last row, before starting the buttonhole, should have ONE square knot.

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Step 7. Buttonhole.

Divide cords into two groups of four. Tie 5 SK sennet (tie one SK right after the other in a vertical row) with Cords 1-4. Repeat for Cords 5-8. Tie one SK with Cords 3-6.

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Step 8. Tie one large SK using Cords 1-2 as left tying cords, Cords 3-6 as filler (the middle) and Cords 7-8 as right tying cords.

Step 9. Tails.

Decide the length desired for the tail cords. Cut cords, string a small bead to each cord or every other cord. Tie an overhand knot in the tail ends. Trim cord close to the tip. Melt cord to keep from fraying with matches or lighter. Hold fire to tip a nanosecond so you don’t burn or scorch the cord.

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Step 10.

Line up buttonhole to the front end of belt. Determine placement of button. Sew on button.

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All done. Finished!! Ready to wear your belt. You could also wear this around your neck as a necklace. Two for one. Pretty neat, huh!!

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Note: Cord length used for this belt yielded 34″ BEFORE the buttonhole. Total belt length with tails is 45″. Cut cord shorter or longer to obtain the desired waist length.

(Sorry pictures are a bit fuzzy.)

Tuesday’s Tutorial: Bronze Macrame Belt

Today’s tutorial will be a macrame belt. Bronze Ringer.

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Supplies/Tools Needed:

  • 3 1/2 mm braided macrame cord (51-61 yards*)
  • one 2 1/4″ welded ring (treated not raw metal)
  • macrame board or covered ceiling tile
  • T-pins
  • tape measure, ruler or yardstick
  • scissors

Directions to make belt.

Step 1.  Cut twelve 5 yard cords and one 1 yard cord.

Step 2.  Using the one yard cord, cover 2 1/4″ ring with continuous half hitches. Trim the excess cord when finished.

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Step 3.  Find the centers of six 5 yard cords and mount to one side of the covered ring using Reverse Lark’s Head knots.  (Set the other six 5 yards cords aside for later.)

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Step 4.  Number cords 1-12.

Row 1. Tie Square Knots (SK) with cords 1-4, 5-8 and 9-12.  (Unless noted otherwise, you will always tie a square knot with 2 filler cords. )  Tie the knots close to the ring.

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Row 2. Tie SK’s with cords 3-6 and 7-10.

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Row 3. Tie a SK Sinnet of 3 SK’s with cords 1-4, 5-8 and 9-12. A sinnet is a vertical row of knots, one tied right under the next.

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Row 4. Tie SK’s with cords 3-6 and 7-10.
Row 5. Tie SK’s with cords 1-4, 5-8 and 9-12.
Row 6. Tie SK’s with cords 3-6 and 7-10.

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Repeat Rows 3 through 6 seven times.

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Step 5. To finish off this side of the belt…

Tie a SK Sinnet of 3 SK’s with cords 1-4, 5-8 and 9-12.
Tie 3 large square knots using the two outer end cords on both sides as tying cords and the 8 cords in the middle as filler cords.

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Step 6. The Tail. Determine how long you wish the tail to be and trim cords to that length. Tie an overhand knot at the end of each cord. Cut cord close to the overhand knot. Using a match or lighter, melt cord lightly to keep from fraying. Don’t hold fire too long to the cord. You don’t want to burn it.

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Step 7. Repeat Steps 3 through 6 for the opposite side of the belt.

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Congratulations!! You are done and ready to wear your belt. You can insert whatever you wish inside the ring opening, such as the wooden flower, as I did. Or leave the opening plain. This belt is pretty tied to the side or tied with the ring in the front.

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* Note: Length of cord to use depends on your waist size and how long you want belt to be. This belt in the tutorial measures 41″ at the point it ties around the waist. The tails measures 17″. So cut shorter cords if you want a smaller belt and eliminate a few of the “repeat” sections in Step 4.