How To Add A Zipper To A Pouch… Donna Style

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Zippered pouches are the rage right now and tutorials are popping up all over the net. After trying a few with so-so results, I decided to figure out my own way of adding a zipper. I love how the above pouch turned out, so I thought I would share my process with you.

My tutorial doesn’t instruct how to make a pouch. It BEGINS at the “add a zipper” stage. You will have already created and sewn the pouch front and back, plus the lining front and back. You can make your pouch any size. The process is the same.

Preparation: You will need a zipper and two fabric squares.

Cut two 3″ fabric squares.

Take one of the squares and fold up one end at 3/4″.

Fold up again. And again. Finger press. When unfolded, you should have three creases. Leave unfolded.

Now fold one flap to the center. Do same with other flap. Fold two sides together. Press flat.

For a finished look, stitch along the long side where the folded edges meet. Stitch the other side.

Repeat the above steps for the 2nd fabric square.

Measuring and Alignment

Select a zipper that is from two to 3″ longer than the length (left to right) of the pouch. Lay the zipper flat near the top edge of the pouch. Center it across the pouch top edge.  Pin (or mark with chalk) where the pouch edges align with the centered zipper.

Move zipper tab to open the zipper. Sew across zipper teeth on both left and right where you marked it. (If zipper has metal teeth, hand walk foot over the zipper to prevent needle breakage.) Reinforce stitching.

Sewing Fabric Tabs To Zipper

Place fabric tabs about 1/2″ to 3/4″ from the left and right pouch edges.  Important: They will NOT be sewn into the side seams.

Begin stitching down the fabric tabs to the zipper. Both top and bottom. Both sides. Don’t stretch and pull on the tabs. Leave a tiny bit of wiggle room. I like to be able to insert my fingernail under the tab.

At this stage, zipper has not yet been sewn to pouch. It is positioned near the top of the pouch for illustration purposes. So you can see how the stitched ends align with the pouch edges. Zipper is sewn to pouch in the next steps.

Pinning Zipper to Pouch Front and Lining Front

Arrange pouch pieces and lining pieces how they will be sewn.

Now, sandwich zipper between pouch front and lining front. Right sides together. Zipper facing down (and opened). See photo.

Repeat for Pouch Back and Lining Back.

Topstitching gives pouch a finished look. Do it now while the pouch is flat.

Sewing Side Seams and Bottom (Insert strap before sewing up sides.)

Very carefully, begin sewing side seams, mindful of the zipper fabric tabs. DO NOT CATCH THEM IN THE SEAMS. Slowly sew over the zipper teeth. (If zipper has metal teeth, hand walk foot over the zipper to prevent needle breakage.) Reinforce by stitching over the teeth once more.

Turn pouch inside out to check and make sure all is right. Are you happy with your work? If yes, trim zipper excess.

Finish off bottom as you normally would.

And done!! Enjoy!!

If you try this, let me know how your zipper turned out. Thanks!!

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Linking to…

http://allthingsfee.blogspot.com/2012/06/calling-all-crafters-65th-edition.html

http://www.sewcando.com/2012/06/craftastic-monday-linky-winner.html

http://sewhappygeek.co.uk/index.php/manic-monday/

http://what-about.co/june-22-2012-show-friday-blog-hop/

Pattern To My Hexagon Crocheted Hot Pad Is Finished

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To everyone who posted a comment or e-mailed me inquiring… my hexagon hot pad pattern is hot off the press.

I finally just dropped everything and did it!! Feels great to have it off my back and off my To-Do List.

Sorry it took so long. I couldn’t find my instructions for the ones I made a couple years ago. So I had to start from scratch.

This rust one I made Friday.

And I made the purple one yesterday totally from my pattern. Testing it out. Making sure it all made sense. And it did!!

You can find it here.

http://www.etsy.com/listing/96058755/pattern-hexie-granny-crocheted-hot-pad

Cathedral Window Pincushion

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This is one of the blocks I have been itching to try. I moved it to the top of my To-Make list after deciding to try something small.

I have been wanting to make a pincushion for months. But I wanted to make mine with crushed walnut shells inside and didn’t have any. So, off I went to Petsmart.

Rather than walk around searching for the shells, I asked for help right off the bat. The lady asked me what type pet I had. None. :D I quickly mentioned I wanted the shells for crafts. Specifically, pincushions. Must not have been the first time she heard that. She never blinked. Didn’t say “for real.” None of that. She walked me to a bag. The ONLY bag they had. 7 lbs. I will be making lots of pincushions!!

But first, let me show you the one I made yesterday. All from scraps in purple and lavender.

It looks ok. It will pass.

The button in the center is not just for decoration. It is for saving face. Covering my poor stitching. :D

I put the walnut shells in a little sack I made out of batting. Then inserted it into the opening in the back. (I ended up using this darker purple for the back instead of the glittered fabric.)

It fits perfectly inside one of my recycled wooden frames. Is this cool or what!! It measures 3 1/2″ square and 1 3/4″ high.

This is the tutorial I used. Go here if you would like to make one. It’s easy. Only one confusing part but I figured it out.

http://www.rileyblakedesigns.com/cutting-corners/2012/02/17/cathedral-window-pincushion/

Have you tried making a cathedral window block? Do you like them?

Quick Project: How To Make Quilted Valentine Headband

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Over the next week, I will show you the Valentine-themed projects I have been working on. They are quick and easy. Still time to make for yourself or as gifts for your loved ones for Valentine’s Day.

The first…

A Quilted Cotton Headband made with Valentine fabrics.

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Supplies List

• Fabric 1: Valentine-themed

• Fabric 2: Valentine-themed

• Fabric 3: Contrast fabric for binding

• Cotton Batting

• Large Button

• Thin Elastic

• Thread

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Directions to make one Headband

Cut Fabric

Top: Cut one strip 23″ by 2 1/4″ from Fabric 1. (If using scraps, piece together a strip measuring 24″ by 3″. Trim to 23″ by 2 1/4″)
Bottom: Repeat above from Fabric 2.
Batting: Cut one 24″ by 3″ strip.

Quilting

Sandwich fabrics and batting in this order. Fabric 1 face up, batting, Fabric 2 face down. Make sure fabric edges are aligned evenly. Hold up to the light to make sure edges match. Pin to secure the “sandwich” and begin quilting in your desired design. I used a heart design and loops.

Trimming and Rounded Corners

Trim all sides. You should end up with a quilted strip of approximately 22″ by 2″.

Now, round all corners. Use something round to mark the corners. Trim off excess.

Binding (and adding Elastic Strip)

Cut one strip 58 by 2″. Or if using scraps, piece together with mitered corners.

Go here if you are unsure how to miter. This site has excellent directions, very easy, anyone can do it. http://www.heatherbaileydesign.com/HB_QuiltBinding.pdf

Fold binding in half, press. Pin and sew on the binding. (Go to the above link for directions if you need help sewing on a binding.)

Add in the elastic strip (long enough to go around your button) on one end before completely sewing around the end. Elastic strip should be placed to the left of where you will be sewing. Backstitch several times to secure. I used a very thin black elastic.

Button Closure

Fit headband around your head to determine placement of button. Sew on button.

To prevent stitches from showing on the backside. Go in and out of the SAME area. Don’t cross over to the next hole. Will look neater from the back. (Or you could sew on a second button underneath to hide the stitches.)

And FINISHED. Enjoy!!

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What I used…

Valentine-themed fabric from Moda. Black polka dot fabric and heart button are from JoAnn’s. Warm and White cotton batting from JoAnn’s.

It is now in my Etsy Shop.

http://www.etsy.com/listing/92511187/valentine-quilted-cotton-headband-in-red

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Linking to Crazymomquilts. Check out the Friday finishes.

http://crazymomquilts.blogspot.com/2012/02/finish-it-up-friday-week-14.html

Instructions To Make “Little Missy” Macrame Purse

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This little macrame purse gets the most views and clicks than any other item on my blog. In red/pink and brown/cream.

I bet you didn’t know I had the instructions on how to make it posted.

I had the title as How To Close Up A Macrame Purse. Duh!! Silly me!! If you didn’t read the whole post, then you missed my instructions.

Well, time to remedy that. I fixed my goof. I renamed the blog post so you could find it better during searches.

You can make it in any color. Solid, striped. Add buttons and bows.

If you want to make one, go here.

https://thisyearsdozen.wordpress.com/2011/02/05/how-to-make-little-missy-macrame-purse/

And let me know if you have any questions. Thanks!!

How I Made My Quilted Oven Mitts

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There are a lot of helpful tutorials and tips out there on the net to make Oven Mitts. I did my research, read probably about 30 “how to’s” and cherry-picked from those I liked.

When gathering up your fabric choices make sure you select 100% cotton for fire safety precautions. You will need a top fabric and a lining fabric plus batting and insulated lining.

MAKING OVEN MITT TEMPLATE

First I traced around an old oven mitt I bought years ago at the Dollar Store. Make it slightly larger than the actual mitt. Plain and simple shape. Nothing fancy. I bet you have something similar laying around your house.

Use hard stock paper for tracing if you have any. You can cut out several templates to make cutting go faster.

CUTTING OVEN MITT PIECES

Cut two (2) mitts from the top fabric. Thumb facing left. One facing right.
Cut two (2) mitts from the lining fabric. Ditto above for left and right.
Cut two (2) mitts from the insulated lining (see bottom of post for what I used). Shiny side up. One thumb facing left. One right.
Cut two (2) mitts from your ALL COTTON batting.

QUILTING

Pin in this order.

One top fabric and one Insul-Bright. Shiny side facing the WRONG side of top fabric.
One lining fabric and one batting. Batting facing the WRONG side of lining fabric.

Quilt the above “sandwiches” in two steps. Just as you have them pinned. Top fabric and Insul-Bright. Then lining and batting.

For the top fabric, sew simple, slightly curved lines from top to bottom. And one arched line from inside of thumb “V” down along the thumb’s outside curve.

You only need to match up one seam, if you wish. For the side thumb seam. Mark this spot so front and back seams will line up when sewn together.

The rest of the quilting lines can be random. But if you make three lines on the front, as I have. Make the same on the back.

Quilting on the lining/batting should also be simple, though I did add a few more vertical lines. To keep the inside from bunching when washed, I added two horizontal lines.

Eyeball it and sew one about 3 inches down from the top and one about 3 inches from bottom of the mitt. Not too many since you don’t want the fabric to shrink from a lot of quilting.

Repeat for the second set.

SEWING QUILT SANDWICHES TOGETHER

Sewing top and bottom sets together.

Use your Walking Foot, if you have one, and set it to the default zig zag stitch. I didn’t adjust the stitch. Start anywhere along the edge. Go all around. Repeat for the second set.

Top fabric.

Lining fabric.

MAKING HANGING TAB

Cut a strip of matching or coordinating fabric 1 1/2″ by 5″. Fold in half along the longer side. Now fold the halves up toward center fold. Iron or finger press. Sew down the middle of strip. Set aside for later.

SEWING TOP TO THE BOTTOM

Pin zig zagged sections together with lining fabric on outside, front and back.

Insert hanging tab (folded) about 2″ up from the bottom on one side. I put mine on the straight side, not the thumb side.

Begin sewing. Again using your Walking Foot and the zig zag stitch. Yes, you will be zig zagging on top of the zig zagging. Start on the bottom end of the mitt on one side. Go around and stop at the bottom end of the mitt on the other side. Do Not Sew The Bottom Opening. Leave it open.

TURN OVEN MITT INSIDE OUT (Main fabric will be on the outside)

Look over your mitt. Make sure you are happy with how you sewed the top to the bottom. If bunched in the thumb area, go back inside and clip in the “V” area, careful not to cut the stitches. If you are satisfied, turn mitt back to lining on outside. Now do the final sewing. Go back along the zig zag path with STRAIGHT STITCHES. Just to reinforce. Now, turn inside out. Main fabric will be on the outside. Use something stiff (not pointed) to push out the curves along the sewn edges of the mitt. Just using your fingers doesn’t push the fabric out. (This photo is showing two mitts.)

FINISHING OFF BOTTOM OPENING

Binding, bias binding, cuff. Your choice.

I decided on a mock cuff. Cut a strip of 2 1/2″ by 12″.

Pin cuff strip to the inside of the bottom opening. Right sides together. Stitch along the zig zag path, above it.

I removed my tools case (I guess that is what it is called) from my sewing machine so I could fit the cuff onto the arm.

Stop sewing before you get to the side seam of the mitt. Make a side seam in the cuff strip. Make sure it fits perfectly along the rim. Trim excess from seam. Finger press open. Continue sewing.

Turn cuff fabric up. Turn edges down. Top stitch all around.

And done!! Enjoy!!

These instructions will make one oven mitt. Repeat for a second one, if desired.

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This is the insulated lining I used. Insul-Bright. I got it on-line at Fabric.com. It comes with great tips on how to use it. Also has an oven mitt template on the packaging label which I plan to print out to use in the future.

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How To Make A Quilted Pillowcase (Like Mine)

Actually, the band at the top is quilted. Not the whole pillowcase.

I figured why not share how I am making these so you can reduce your fabric stash. Maybe even use up some of the scrap pieces piling up.

Here are the supplies you will need.

• 3 main fabric pieces
• scrap fabric for the band strips
• cotton batting
• thread
• quilting grip gloves
• sewing pins, quilting pins
• cutting mat, rotary cutter, rulers
• tape measure
• scissors
• sewing feet (walking foot, free motion foot, 1/4″ foot)

Go gather up a bunch of fabric pieces at least 5″ in length. I am using mostly 6″ or longer to allow for trimming. The widths can be different.

And you will need three main fabrics. One for the band which will be sewn to the “strips”. And two fabrics for the body. That is… if you make your pillowcase like I made mine. You will want to make strips for the band out of the main fabrics as well. To blend with the scrap pieces.

Fabric 1 Red polka dot (band) 1/2 yd
Fabric 2 Black and white small cow print (border) 1/2 yd
Fabric 3 Spaceships with blue background (body) 1 yd

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OK, ready to sew?

PILLOWCASE TOP BAND

Cut and sew fabric strips together to measure approximately 43″ in length. Mix up colors and patterns. Mix up light and dark. (Assume 1/4″ seams unless otherwise noted.)

Press seams all in one direction.

Trim band strip using the shortest piece as your guide.

Using the fabric you selected for your band, cut one piece 9″ by length of your strip.

Lay strip along the bottom (right sides together) and sew together. Press seam in direction of Fabric 1, Red polka dot.

Fold in half, line up edges.

Cut a piece of cotton batting the length of the fabric strip PLUS about an inch on both sides and along the bottom.

The top of the batting will lay against the band fold. See photo.

Pin the “quilt sandwich”. Put in enough pins to keep layers from shifting as you sew.

Quilt the layers. I free motion quilted mine. Stippled. You can use whatever design you prefer. Trim off the excess batting.

PILLOWCASE BODY-Horizontal

From Fabric 2 (Cow print), cut one 2 1/2″ strip the length of the band.
From Fabric 3 (Spaceships), cut one piece 25″ by length of the band.

Make a French Seam, sew Fabric 2 to the top of Fabric 3. Start with wrong sides together. If you don’t know how to make a French Seam, go here for instructions.

http://www.sewneau.com/how.to/french.seam.html

http://www.colettepatterns.com/blog/tutorials-tips-tricks/tutorial-how-to-create-a-french-seam

Repeat. Make a French Seam, sew band to body. See photo.

PILLOWCASE-Side and Bottom

To connect the sides, line up pillowcase sides, trim if needed. Wrong sides together, sew a French Seam. Same as you did above. You may need to switch to a sturdier needle, like a denim needle. That is what I used. The fabric will be bulky here. And use your Walking Foot.

Almost done!!

One last thing to do. Sew up the bottom. Prepare fabric. Align, press, trim bottom edges if needed.

Sew a French Seam to close up the bottom. As you may have guessed, ALL SEAMS will be raw edge free and enclosed. Nothing to fray.

OK, now turn pillowcase right side out. Poke out the bottom corners. And done. Will fit the standard size pillow.

Enjoy!!

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Go here for great pillowcase tutorials. I got my inspiration from this site.

http://www.allpeoplequilt.com/millionpillowcases/freepatterns/

How To Make “Little Missy” Macrame Purse

Many of you have asked “how do I close up the bottom of a macrame purse?” And though I do already have basic directions posted on how to do this, I thought I would do another tutorial and provide detailed illustrations to make the steps clearer.

And the best part…

You get the tutorial for the entire purse, not just closing up the bottom. Two for One.

This is the Little Missy Purse I have mentioned before. I have made and sold quite a few. Cute little purse for a precious little girl to carry her allowance in. Fast and easy to make.

I am doing mine in two different colors to illustrate the joining of sides and how to close up the bottom.

Ready? OK, let’s get started.

First, the supplies list.

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Supplies/Tools Needed

6mm braided macrame cord (I am using brown and cream)
two 3″ D shaped plastic Marbella rings
ruler/yardstick/tape measure
scissors
craft glue
macrame board (or covered ceiling tile)
T pins

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Instructions: How to Make Little Missy Purse

Cut 12 cords 40″ long – brown.
Cut 12 cords 40″ long – cream.
Or 24 cords all one color.

Melt the cord ends slightly with lighter or matches to keep from fraying. Don’t hold fire to cord long. Just a nanosecond. Could burn cord. You can see in this photo the fraying that happens as you work with the cord, IF you do not melt the tips first.

Find centers of six brown and six cream cords and pin to macrame board. (Set aside the balance of the cut cords for later.)

Lark’s Head 6 brown cords to the 1st D ring.

Notice the “knobs” formed on the backside. You will be working from the knobless side.

You will now begin tying macrame knots. Mostly Square Knots (SK) will be used in this project.

Starting on the left, number cords from 1-12.

Row 1. Tie one Square Knot (SK) with cords 1-4, 5-8, 9-12.

There are now 3 Square Knots in this row.

Row 2. Tie a SK with cords 3-6 and 7-10.

Find the center of one of the extra 40″ brown cords. These will be called the “add on” cords. Place it next to the FIRST cord on the left. Find the center of another 40″ brown cords. Place it next to the LAST cord on the right.

Tie a Square Knot (SK) with the new cord just added and cords 1 and 2. (The new cord when folded in half becomes two cords to work with.)

Pull down on the loop formed, smooth it out.

Repeat this by tying a SK with the new cord added on the right plus cords 11 and 12.

This row now has 4 Square Knots.

Renumber cords 1-16.

Row 3. Tie SK’s with cords 3-6, 7-10, 11-14.

Repeat the “add on” process. Same as you did for Row 2.

This row now has 5 SK’s.

Renumber cords 1-20.

Row 4. Tie SK’s with cords 3-6, 7-10, 11-14, 15-18.

Repeat the “add on” process.

This row now has 6 Square Knots. Renumber cords 1-24.

Set aside Side 1.

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Now you will work Side 2. Repeat all steps to attach cords to the 2nd D ring. Do all steps up to the 6 SK’s in Row 4. Number cords 1-24.

Now lay both sides side-by-side on macrame board to join the two.

Tie SK with cords 23 and 24 from Side 1 plus cords 1 and 2 from Side 2.

This one SK starts the next row. Row 5.

Renumber cords 1-48.

Now, to finish Row 5, tie SK’s with cords 3-6, 7-10, 11-14, 15-18, 19-22 (skip 23-26, knot is already there), 27-30, 31-34, 35-38, 39-42, 43-46.

Row 5 now has 11 Square Knots (SK).

Now join sides together to work purse in a tube, in the round. Unpin Side 1 from macrame board and place it next to Side 2.

Tie one SK with the last two cords on the left and the first two cords on the right. See photo for assistance.

This completes Row 5. It now has 12 SK’s.

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Begin tying in the round.

Row 6. Starting with cords 1-4, tie one SK.

Go all around, tying in the round. These are called Alternating Square Knots (ASK) since you are tying a knot with 2 cords from the above SK and 2 cords from the above adjacent SK. (12 SK’s)

Row 7. Tie one row of ASK’s. Go all around. Don’t tie with the same cords as in Row 6. (12 SK’s)

This is how your Little Missy purse should look after 7 rows.

Row 8. Tie one row of ASK’s. Go all around. Don’t tie with the same cords as in Row 7. (12 SK’s)

Row 9. Tie one row of ASK’s. Go all around. Don’t tie with the same cords as in Row 8. (12 SK’s)

Row 10. Tie one row of ASK’s. Go all around. Don’t tie with the same cords as in Row 9. Make sure to tie each knot tight. (12 SK’s)

This is how your purse should look after 10 rows.

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Closing Up the Bottom of Purse

Turn purse inside out.

The “knobs” up near the D rings will now be on the outside.

Locate Cords 1 and 48. Tie an Overhand Knot on cord ends to identify later. Do the same with Cords 24 and 25.

Turn purse sideways or fit between your knees. Divide cords into 24 and 24. Front and Back cords.

Use the cords with Overhand Knots on the ends as your guide.

Tie a Square Knot with no filler cords with Cords 48 and 1. Just those two cords.

Push cords out of your way. Tie a SK with the NEXT TWO CORDS FROM THE LEFT and THE NEXT TWO CORDS FROM THE RIGHT.

Pull on the filler cords to tighten knot. Continue tying knots this way. Two from one side and two from the other until you reach the last 2 cords. They have Overhand Knots on the ends. Tie a Square Knot with no filler cords with just those two cords.

All knot tying is now complete.

OK, let’s do a check of the closing knots. You should have one SK (no filler) in one corner, 11 SK along the bottom of the purse and one SK (no filler) in the other corner.

Here is a bottom view of the closing knots.

And a flat view of the closing knots.

Make sure you pulled down on all filler cords. So the bottom will look as smooth as possible.

Trim each cord to about an inch. Melt the cut ends with a lighter or match to prevent fraying. Touch cord lightly so not to burn.

Turn purse inside out. “Knobs” along the top of the D ring should now be back on the inside.

Apply craft glue to each knot from the inside of the purse. Allow to dry. Shape the bottom.

Push down on the knots from the inside. Purse should be able to stand up on its own. (This is the craft glue I used.)

Embellish, if desired, with buttons, bows, ribbon. You can even add a lining inside.

You are finished!! Enjoy!!

Purse Measurements: 6 1/4″ length, 7 1/2″ height, 1 1/4″ width (at the widest point, the bottom)

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Note: These instructions for closing up the bottom of a macrame purse will work with a large purse, too. You will just have more SK’s to tie.

How To Make A Twisted Herringbone Bracelet

Just finished this tutorial for a friend who is making lots of pretty bracelets and wanted to learn the Twisted Herringbone stitch.

So… I thought I would share it with you in case you have been wanting to learn too.

You start off with three rounds of the basic Tubular Herringbone stitch. If you don’t know how to make it, do a Google search or check YouTube.

I’ll begin my tutorial at the point the tube is formed and you start stitching the twisted part. And my tutorial shows you how to attach a store bought clasp. Nothing fancy (like mine) to scare you off. :D

To begin, here are the supplies you will need.

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TWISTED HERRINGBONE BRACELET TUTORIAL

Supplies Needed

Size 8/0 Seed Beads (SB)
Color 1 brown
Color 2 cream
Color 3 burgundy

Beading thread. Fireline, Wildfire or Nymo
Beading needle size 10 (flexible is best)
Nipper tool
Ruler/tape measure/yard stick
Toggle clasp or clasp of your choice
Bead stopper

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Getting started. Cut 4 yards of beading thread. Thread needle. Put a bead stopper on one end, leaving a 12″ tail (will be used to sew clasp). Do not knot either end. Will be using the entire length of thread.

STEP A: TUBULAR HERRINGBONE STITCH

You will begin with 3 rounds of tubular herringbone stitch sewing counterclockwise. (If you don’t know how to make it, do a Google search or check YouTube.)

STEP B: TWISTED HERRINGBONE STITCH

Pull tightly on beadwork to form tube. Rest of bracelet will be worked in tube form.

You should have three columns. One in each color. Stacks of 3 SB’s.

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Round 1

Pick up two Color 1 (brown).

Sew down into next single SB (brown) and UP through two SB’s IN THE NEXT COLUMN (cream column).

Round 2

Pick up two Color 2 (cream).

Sew down into next single SB (cream) and up through two SB’s in the next column (burgundy column).

Round 3

Pick up two Color 3 (burgundy).

Sew down into next single SB (burgundy).

And now… IMPORTANT… to finish this row…

Go up through THREE SB’s in the next column (brown column).

You have just completed one row of Twisted Herringbone.

Check your beadwork to make sure thread is where it should be and is tight.

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STEP C: CONTINUE BEADING HERRINGBONE TUBE

Repeat Rounds 1 through 3 in STEP B until you reach your desired bracelet length. Allow 1 to 1 1/2″ for clasp. Beadwork should NOT reach tip to tip around your wrist.

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Extra Notes and Tips

• Needles:  Using a flexible needle is best. It will allow you to go “down and up” with one stroke.
• Seed beads:  Select seed beads with the same size so column height will match up.
• Around the 5th or 6th row, you will see beadwork begin to twist.

This is how it looks at the 2 inch mark.

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Step D: Adding Clasp To The LOOP Portion Of The Toggle

There are many ways to add a clasp. And many types of clasp. This is just a quick and easy way of doing it.

Pinch one end of the bracelet flat between your fingers.

Line up the 6 SB’s. 3 to the front and 3 to the back. Thread should exit one of the center SB’s. Front or back, doesn’t matter.

You will use four (4) size 8/0 seed beads for this step.

A. Pick up one size 8/0 SB (color is your choice) and go through the round hole on the bottom of the “loop” half of the toggle.

Continue to the OPPOSITE side. Match up with the center bead opposite you.

Go down 4 SB’s in this stack.

Do a “U” turn and come go UP 4 SB’s in the stack to the right of it. (Make sure thread is hidden between the beads, pull tight.)

B. Pick up one SB (same color you selected in A).

Go through the round hole on the bottom of the “loop” half of the toggle.

Now go down 4 SB’s in the next column.

Do a “U” and go UP 4 SB’s in the stack to the right of it.

C. Pick up one SB (same color you selected in A).

Go through the round hole on the bottom of the “loop” half of the toggle.

Now go down 4 SB’s in the next column, do U turn to the stack to the right of it.

Go up 4 SB’s.

Now go through the round hole on the bottom of the “loop” half of the toggle.

It may look messy but weave in and out around the area to tighten it up and “clean” it up. Add extra beads or, if desired, create a fringe with tiny seed beads to cover the “hole”.

That completes one half of the clasp.

Experiment with different clasps and different number of seed beads for different looks.

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Step E: Adding Clasp To The BAR Portion Of The Toggle

Pinch the end of the bracelet flat between your fingers.

Line up the 6 SB’s. 3 to the front and 3 to the back. Just as you did for the LOOP portion. Thread should exit one of the center SB’s. Front or back, doesn’t matter.

You will use ten (10) size 8/0 seed beads for this step.

D. Pick up 5 SB’s and go through the round hole on the bottom of the “bar” half of the toggle, and pick up 5 more SB’s.

Continue on to the opposite side of this bead. Go down 4 SB’s in this stack.

And wouldn’t you know it!! The last picture showing the “U” turn and back up to the top is blurred. But you know what to do. You’ve done it before. :-D

Tighten up the beads, add extra beads, add a fringe. Do whatever you wish to finish up.

Before doing too much weaving in and out, test the toggle to make sure the bar end smoothly goes through the loop end. You may have to add more than the 10 beads or use less. Try bracelet on BEFORE cutting thread.

Thanks for making my bracelet.

THE END……

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I like to make my own beaded clasp so for this bracelet I sewed two open triangles together. One triangle made with the three seed bead colors and a triangle for the back in solid brown. I added a button to the other end.

How To Make A Beaded Toggle Bar

Beaded toggle bars are easy to make. Even if you don’t know the peyote stitch that well.

One thing I suggest. Do resist the temptation to continue from your beadwork directly to the toggle bar. Always end your current thread. And start with a fresh thread to connect the toggle bar.

Reasons?

• you make a mistake on placement and need to undo it
• bar is too large or too small and you want to remake it
• need to change the number of beads leading to the bar
• etc, etc.

If you had continued with the same thread as your beadwork, you could possibly ruin your item trying to make these changes. Been there. Done that.

This is what works for me. And I have tried various combinations of seed beads/rows.

Using 8/0 seed beads, gauge how many you will need. I have tried 14, 16, 18 and 20 seed beads.  Peyote for 4 rows. Meaning when you count the beads at the top and bottom, you count 4.

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Instructions for Beaded Toggle Bar

Step 1

String 20 seed beads. I used size 8/0. Add a bead stopper.

Step 2

Beginning on the end opposite the bead stopper, working upward, start adding beads.

Continue adding beads/rows until you have 4 beads at the top and 4 beads at the bottom.

Step 3

Pinch the beadwork together between your fingers. I used a metal clip to illustrate the folding of the beads.

Step 4

Begin to sew the sides together.

Zip up the sides by sewing into ONLY the high beads. Those sticking out further. Go from one side to the other, going upward. I like to reinforce the beadwork by going up and down the entire length of the toggle bar with the working thread. Also going up and back down with the tail thread. Try to come out of the same seed bead with both threads. CUT BOTH THREADS.

This is how your beaded toggle bar should look after sewing the sides together.

Step 5

Once finished, one last thing to do. Insert a piece of inexpensive wire. Artistic Wire, I think mine is called.

Push it through the toggle bar almost to the end. Cut wire, file any burrs, now push the rest of the way. This extra step strengthens your toggle bar. The wire is in tight enough, no need to worry about it coming out. (You could sew a tiny 11/0 seed bead on the ends.)

Step 6

Connect toggle bar to your beadwork.

You decide how many seed beads are needed to comfortably go through the other end of your clasp.

OK. Now go get your bead stash and try making this toggle bar. And pocket the money you would normally spend buying commercial clasps. Enjoy!!

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Supplies/Tools Used

• Fireline beading thread
• size 10 or 12 beading needle
• 8/0 seed beads
• 2″ piece of 20 gauge Artistic Wire
• bead stopper
• wire cutter
• ruler

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If you need help with the peyote stitching part, see my blog’s sidebar under Tutorials. Lots of help links there.