How To Add A Zipper To A Pouch… Donna Style

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Zippered pouches are the rage right now and tutorials are popping up all over the net. After trying a few with so-so results, I decided to figure out my own way of adding a zipper. I love how the above pouch turned out, so I thought I would share my process with you.

My tutorial doesn’t instruct how to make a pouch. It BEGINS at the “add a zipper” stage. You will have already created and sewn the pouch front and back, plus the lining front and back. You can make your pouch any size. The process is the same.

Preparation: You will need a zipper and two fabric squares.

Cut two 3″ fabric squares.

Take one of the squares and fold up one end at 3/4″.

Fold up again. And again. Finger press. When unfolded, you should have three creases. Leave unfolded.

Now fold one flap to the center. Do same with other flap. Fold two sides together. Press flat.

For a finished look, stitch along the long side where the folded edges meet. Stitch the other side.

Repeat the above steps for the 2nd fabric square.

Measuring and Alignment

Select a zipper that is from two to 3″ longer than the length (left to right) of the pouch. Lay the zipper flat near the top edge of the pouch. Center it across the pouch top edge.  Pin (or mark with chalk) where the pouch edges align with the centered zipper.

Move zipper tab to open the zipper. Sew across zipper teeth on both left and right where you marked it. (If zipper has metal teeth, hand walk foot over the zipper to prevent needle breakage.) Reinforce stitching.

Sewing Fabric Tabs To Zipper

Place fabric tabs about 1/2″ to 3/4″ from the left and right pouch edges.  Important: They will NOT be sewn into the side seams.

Begin stitching down the fabric tabs to the zipper. Both top and bottom. Both sides. Don’t stretch and pull on the tabs. Leave a tiny bit of wiggle room. I like to be able to insert my fingernail under the tab.

At this stage, zipper has not yet been sewn to pouch. It is positioned near the top of the pouch for illustration purposes. So you can see how the stitched ends align with the pouch edges. Zipper is sewn to pouch in the next steps.

Pinning Zipper to Pouch Front and Lining Front

Arrange pouch pieces and lining pieces how they will be sewn.

Now, sandwich zipper between pouch front and lining front. Right sides together. Zipper facing down (and opened). See photo.

Repeat for Pouch Back and Lining Back.

Topstitching gives pouch a finished look. Do it now while the pouch is flat.

Sewing Side Seams and Bottom (Insert strap before sewing up sides.)

Very carefully, begin sewing side seams, mindful of the zipper fabric tabs. DO NOT CATCH THEM IN THE SEAMS. Slowly sew over the zipper teeth. (If zipper has metal teeth, hand walk foot over the zipper to prevent needle breakage.) Reinforce by stitching over the teeth once more.

Turn pouch inside out to check and make sure all is right. Are you happy with your work? If yes, trim zipper excess.

Finish off bottom as you normally would.

And done!! Enjoy!!

If you try this, let me know how your zipper turned out. Thanks!!

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Linking to…

http://allthingsfee.blogspot.com/2012/06/calling-all-crafters-65th-edition.html

http://www.sewcando.com/2012/06/craftastic-monday-linky-winner.html

http://sewhappygeek.co.uk/index.php/manic-monday/

http://what-about.co/june-22-2012-show-friday-blog-hop/

Pattern To My Hexagon Crocheted Hot Pad Is Finished

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To everyone who posted a comment or e-mailed me inquiring… my hexagon hot pad pattern is hot off the press.

I finally just dropped everything and did it!! Feels great to have it off my back and off my To-Do List.

Sorry it took so long. I couldn’t find my instructions for the ones I made a couple years ago. So I had to start from scratch.

This rust one I made Friday.

And I made the purple one yesterday totally from my pattern. Testing it out. Making sure it all made sense. And it did!!

You can find it here.

http://www.etsy.com/listing/96058755/pattern-hexie-granny-crocheted-hot-pad

Cathedral Window Pincushion

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This is one of the blocks I have been itching to try. I moved it to the top of my To-Make list after deciding to try something small.

I have been wanting to make a pincushion for months. But I wanted to make mine with crushed walnut shells inside and didn’t have any. So, off I went to Petsmart.

Rather than walk around searching for the shells, I asked for help right off the bat. The lady asked me what type pet I had. None. 😀 I quickly mentioned I wanted the shells for crafts. Specifically, pincushions. Must not have been the first time she heard that. She never blinked. Didn’t say “for real.” None of that. She walked me to a bag. The ONLY bag they had. 7 lbs. I will be making lots of pincushions!!

But first, let me show you the one I made yesterday. All from scraps in purple and lavender.

It looks ok. It will pass.

The button in the center is not just for decoration. It is for saving face. Covering my poor stitching. 😀

I put the walnut shells in a little sack I made out of batting. Then inserted it into the opening in the back. (I ended up using this darker purple for the back instead of the glittered fabric.)

It fits perfectly inside one of my recycled wooden frames. Is this cool or what!! It measures 3 1/2″ square and 1 3/4″ high.

This is the tutorial I used. Go here if you would like to make one. It’s easy. Only one confusing part but I figured it out.

http://www.rileyblakedesigns.com/cutting-corners/2012/02/17/cathedral-window-pincushion/

Have you tried making a cathedral window block? Do you like them?

Quick Project: How To Make Quilted Valentine Headband

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Over the next week, I will show you the Valentine-themed projects I have been working on. They are quick and easy. Still time to make for yourself or as gifts for your loved ones for Valentine’s Day.

The first…

A Quilted Cotton Headband made with Valentine fabrics.

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Supplies List

• Fabric 1: Valentine-themed

• Fabric 2: Valentine-themed

• Fabric 3: Contrast fabric for binding

• Cotton Batting

• Large Button

• Thin Elastic

• Thread

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Directions to make one Headband

Cut Fabric

Top: Cut one strip 23″ by 2 1/4″ from Fabric 1. (If using scraps, piece together a strip measuring 24″ by 3″. Trim to 23″ by 2 1/4″)
Bottom: Repeat above from Fabric 2.
Batting: Cut one 24″ by 3″ strip.

Quilting

Sandwich fabrics and batting in this order. Fabric 1 face up, batting, Fabric 2 face down. Make sure fabric edges are aligned evenly. Hold up to the light to make sure edges match. Pin to secure the “sandwich” and begin quilting in your desired design. I used a heart design and loops.

Trimming and Rounded Corners

Trim all sides. You should end up with a quilted strip of approximately 22″ by 2″.

Now, round all corners. Use something round to mark the corners. Trim off excess.

Binding (and adding Elastic Strip)

Cut one strip 58 by 2″. Or if using scraps, piece together with mitered corners.

Go here if you are unsure how to miter. This site has excellent directions, very easy, anyone can do it. http://www.heatherbaileydesign.com/HB_QuiltBinding.pdf

Fold binding in half, press. Pin and sew on the binding. (Go to the above link for directions if you need help sewing on a binding.)

Add in the elastic strip (long enough to go around your button) on one end before completely sewing around the end. Elastic strip should be placed to the left of where you will be sewing. Backstitch several times to secure. I used a very thin black elastic.

Button Closure

Fit headband around your head to determine placement of button. Sew on button.

To prevent stitches from showing on the backside. Go in and out of the SAME area. Don’t cross over to the next hole. Will look neater from the back. (Or you could sew on a second button underneath to hide the stitches.)

And FINISHED. Enjoy!!

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What I used…

Valentine-themed fabric from Moda. Black polka dot fabric and heart button are from JoAnn’s. Warm and White cotton batting from JoAnn’s.

It is now in my Etsy Shop.

http://www.etsy.com/listing/92511187/valentine-quilted-cotton-headband-in-red

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Linking to Crazymomquilts. Check out the Friday finishes.

http://crazymomquilts.blogspot.com/2012/02/finish-it-up-friday-week-14.html

Instructions To Make “Little Missy” Macrame Purse

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This little macrame purse gets the most views and clicks than any other item on my blog. In red/pink and brown/cream.

I bet you didn’t know I had the instructions on how to make it posted.

I had the title as How To Close Up A Macrame Purse. Duh!! Silly me!! If you didn’t read the whole post, then you missed my instructions.

Well, time to remedy that. I fixed my goof. I renamed the blog post so you could find it better during searches.

You can make it in any color. Solid, striped. Add buttons and bows.

If you want to make one, go here.

https://thisyearsdozen.wordpress.com/2011/02/05/how-to-make-little-missy-macrame-purse/

And let me know if you have any questions. Thanks!!

How I Made My Quilted Oven Mitts

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There are a lot of helpful tutorials and tips out there on the net to make Oven Mitts. I did my research, read probably about 30 “how to’s” and cherry-picked from those I liked.

When gathering up your fabric choices make sure you select 100% cotton for fire safety precautions. You will need a top fabric and a lining fabric plus batting and insulated lining.

MAKING OVEN MITT TEMPLATE

First I traced around an old oven mitt I bought years ago at the Dollar Store. Make it slightly larger than the actual mitt. Plain and simple shape. Nothing fancy. I bet you have something similar laying around your house.

Use hard stock paper for tracing if you have any. You can cut out several templates to make cutting go faster.

CUTTING OVEN MITT PIECES

Cut two (2) mitts from the top fabric. Thumb facing left. One facing right.
Cut two (2) mitts from the lining fabric. Ditto above for left and right.
Cut two (2) mitts from the insulated lining (see bottom of post for what I used). Shiny side up. One thumb facing left. One right.
Cut two (2) mitts from your ALL COTTON batting.

QUILTING

Pin in this order.

One top fabric and one Insul-Bright. Shiny side facing the WRONG side of top fabric.
One lining fabric and one batting. Batting facing the WRONG side of lining fabric.

Quilt the above “sandwiches” in two steps. Just as you have them pinned. Top fabric and Insul-Bright. Then lining and batting.

For the top fabric, sew simple, slightly curved lines from top to bottom. And one arched line from inside of thumb “V” down along the thumb’s outside curve.

You only need to match up one seam, if you wish. For the side thumb seam. Mark this spot so front and back seams will line up when sewn together.

The rest of the quilting lines can be random. But if you make three lines on the front, as I have. Make the same on the back.

Quilting on the lining/batting should also be simple, though I did add a few more vertical lines. To keep the inside from bunching when washed, I added two horizontal lines.

Eyeball it and sew one about 3 inches down from the top and one about 3 inches from bottom of the mitt. Not too many since you don’t want the fabric to shrink from a lot of quilting.

Repeat for the second set.

SEWING QUILT SANDWICHES TOGETHER

Sewing top and bottom sets together.

Use your Walking Foot, if you have one, and set it to the default zig zag stitch. I didn’t adjust the stitch. Start anywhere along the edge. Go all around. Repeat for the second set.

Top fabric.

Lining fabric.

MAKING HANGING TAB

Cut a strip of matching or coordinating fabric 1 1/2″ by 5″. Fold in half along the longer side. Now fold the halves up toward center fold. Iron or finger press. Sew down the middle of strip. Set aside for later.

SEWING TOP TO THE BOTTOM

Pin zig zagged sections together with lining fabric on outside, front and back.

Insert hanging tab (folded) about 2″ up from the bottom on one side. I put mine on the straight side, not the thumb side.

Begin sewing. Again using your Walking Foot and the zig zag stitch. Yes, you will be zig zagging on top of the zig zagging. Start on the bottom end of the mitt on one side. Go around and stop at the bottom end of the mitt on the other side. Do Not Sew The Bottom Opening. Leave it open.

TURN OVEN MITT INSIDE OUT (Main fabric will be on the outside)

Look over your mitt. Make sure you are happy with how you sewed the top to the bottom. If bunched in the thumb area, go back inside and clip in the “V” area, careful not to cut the stitches. If you are satisfied, turn mitt back to lining on outside. Now do the final sewing. Go back along the zig zag path with STRAIGHT STITCHES. Just to reinforce. Now, turn inside out. Main fabric will be on the outside. Use something stiff (not pointed) to push out the curves along the sewn edges of the mitt. Just using your fingers doesn’t push the fabric out. (This photo is showing two mitts.)

FINISHING OFF BOTTOM OPENING

Binding, bias binding, cuff. Your choice.

I decided on a mock cuff. Cut a strip of 2 1/2″ by 12″.

Pin cuff strip to the inside of the bottom opening. Right sides together. Stitch along the zig zag path, above it.

I removed my tools case (I guess that is what it is called) from my sewing machine so I could fit the cuff onto the arm.

Stop sewing before you get to the side seam of the mitt. Make a side seam in the cuff strip. Make sure it fits perfectly along the rim. Trim excess from seam. Finger press open. Continue sewing.

Turn cuff fabric up. Turn edges down. Top stitch all around.

And done!! Enjoy!!

These instructions will make one oven mitt. Repeat for a second one, if desired.

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This is the insulated lining I used. Insul-Bright. I got it on-line at Fabric.com. It comes with great tips on how to use it. Also has an oven mitt template on the packaging label which I plan to print out to use in the future.

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How To Make A Quilted Pillowcase (Like Mine)

Actually, the band at the top is quilted. Not the whole pillowcase.

I figured why not share how I am making these so you can reduce your fabric stash. Maybe even use up some of the scrap pieces piling up.

Here are the supplies you will need.

• 3 main fabric pieces
• scrap fabric for the band strips
• cotton batting
• thread
• quilting grip gloves
• sewing pins, quilting pins
• cutting mat, rotary cutter, rulers
• tape measure
• scissors
• sewing feet (walking foot, free motion foot, 1/4″ foot)

Go gather up a bunch of fabric pieces at least 5″ in length. I am using mostly 6″ or longer to allow for trimming. The widths can be different.

And you will need three main fabrics. One for the band which will be sewn to the “strips”. And two fabrics for the body. That is… if you make your pillowcase like I made mine. You will want to make strips for the band out of the main fabrics as well. To blend with the scrap pieces.

Fabric 1 Red polka dot (band) 1/2 yd
Fabric 2 Black and white small cow print (border) 1/2 yd
Fabric 3 Spaceships with blue background (body) 1 yd

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OK, ready to sew?

PILLOWCASE TOP BAND

Cut and sew fabric strips together to measure approximately 43″ in length. Mix up colors and patterns. Mix up light and dark. (Assume 1/4″ seams unless otherwise noted.)

Press seams all in one direction.

Trim band strip using the shortest piece as your guide.

Using the fabric you selected for your band, cut one piece 9″ by length of your strip.

Lay strip along the bottom (right sides together) and sew together. Press seam in direction of Fabric 1, Red polka dot.

Fold in half, line up edges.

Cut a piece of cotton batting the length of the fabric strip PLUS about an inch on both sides and along the bottom.

The top of the batting will lay against the band fold. See photo.

Pin the “quilt sandwich”. Put in enough pins to keep layers from shifting as you sew.

Quilt the layers. I free motion quilted mine. Stippled. You can use whatever design you prefer. Trim off the excess batting.

PILLOWCASE BODY-Horizontal

From Fabric 2 (Cow print), cut one 2 1/2″ strip the length of the band.
From Fabric 3 (Spaceships), cut one piece 25″ by length of the band.

Make a French Seam, sew Fabric 2 to the top of Fabric 3. Start with wrong sides together. If you don’t know how to make a French Seam, go here for instructions.

http://www.sewneau.com/how.to/french.seam.html

http://www.colettepatterns.com/blog/tutorials-tips-tricks/tutorial-how-to-create-a-french-seam

Repeat. Make a French Seam, sew band to body. See photo.

PILLOWCASE-Side and Bottom

To connect the sides, line up pillowcase sides, trim if needed. Wrong sides together, sew a French Seam. Same as you did above. You may need to switch to a sturdier needle, like a denim needle. That is what I used. The fabric will be bulky here. And use your Walking Foot.

Almost done!!

One last thing to do. Sew up the bottom. Prepare fabric. Align, press, trim bottom edges if needed.

Sew a French Seam to close up the bottom. As you may have guessed, ALL SEAMS will be raw edge free and enclosed. Nothing to fray.

OK, now turn pillowcase right side out. Poke out the bottom corners. And done. Will fit the standard size pillow.

Enjoy!!

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Go here for great pillowcase tutorials. I got my inspiration from this site.

http://www.allpeoplequilt.com/millionpillowcases/freepatterns/