How To Extend (Add On) Macrame Cord Ends

At some point, you will run into this problem. You are happily macraming along and your cord ends BEFORE your project ends.

You are faced with….

WHAT TO DO!!!

Scrap the project, cut new cords and start over. Not your first choice, I am sure. Many hours invested down the drain.

Well, you don’t have to scrap projects any longer due to a mistake in measuring and cutting the cord. I will show you how to add on, extend the cords so you can continue tying knots right where you left off.

There are several ways to do this.

  1. extend by sewing cord ends together using thread
  2. extend by sewing cord ends together using your project cord
  3. fusing cord ends together

I usually prefer method #1 best BUT when there is a chance the patched spot can’t be buried successfully, I use method #2.  I have never tried fusing cords since I don’t own a fusing tool. I would probably try it, if I had one.

OK, now let me show you the two ways I use.


Supplies Needed:

  • regular sewing needle for method #1
  • sewing or embroidery needle with slightly wider opening for method #2
  • sewing thread to match your project for method #1
  • 10″ length of cord to match your project for method #2

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Directions to Extend (Add On) Macrame Cords Ends

Step 1.

Stop tying knots about 3-4 inches from the cord ends. If not already done so, melt tips to keep cord ends from fraying and also to anchor thread.

Step 2.

Cut the additional cord lengths required to complete your project. Melt tips.

Step 3a – Method #1 – Using Regular Sewing Thread.

Pin cord ends tip to tip on macrame board. Using regular thread, begin sewing from one side to the other. Keep going back and forth several times. Should be strong enough to withstand a good yank. Make sure to keep the cords STRAIGHT.

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Step 3b – Method #2 – Using Macrame Cord Strands.

Do same as for Step 3a, except you will use a strand of macrame cord from your project instead of regular thread. (See photo)

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Here’s how the two look. Method #1 on the right and Method #2 on the left.

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And here is how they look once I continue tying knots. Can’t spot the patched areas, can you?

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With practice, you will be able to hide (bury) the sewn sections just as well as I can. Experiment to see which method works best for you.


Added 7-14-10.  Another way to add on cords. Go here.

https://thisyearsdozen.wordpress.com/2010/07/14/another-way-to-extend-cord-on-your-macrame-project/

Tuesday’s Tutorial: Twisted Diamond Headband

Today’s tutorial is a simple macrame headband with the same pattern, twisted diamond shape, repeated over and over until you reach the desired head size. I think this is probably the easiest one thus far.

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I made several of them with this design. In brown, peach and burgundy.

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This one I am making today is black with gray/black Marbella beads. It closes in the back with an elastic ponytail holder.

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Supplies/Tools Needed

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  • 13 yards of 3 1/2mm braided macrame cord
  • 32 Marbella beads (3/8″)
  • macrame board or covered ceiling tile
  • T-pins
  • ruler/tape measure/yardstick
  • scissors
  • elastic ponytail holder (the thicker, stiffer kind)
  • sewing needle/black thread

Directions To Make Twisted Diamond Macrame Headband

Step 1.

Cut 3 cords 4 1/4 yards in length.

Step 2.

Find the center of the three 4 1/4 yard cords and mount to macrame board using T-pins.

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Using the black elastic ponytail band, reverse lark’s head all 3 cords onto one side. See photo for assistance. Number cords 1-6.

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Step 3.

Row 1. Tie a Square Knot (SK) with Cords 1-3 and 4-6. (Only ONE filler cord.)

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Row 2. Tie one SK with Cords 2-5. (TWO filler cords.)
Row 3. Repeat same as for Row 1.
Row 4. Repeat same as for Row 2.

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Step 4.

Add one bead to Cord 1 and one bead to Cord 6.

Step 5 – Half Knot Sennet.

With Cords 1-3, begin tying a Half Knot Sennet of 6 half knots. One right after the other in a vertical row. (The knots will start to twist. That is OK, it is supposed to do that.) Photo is showing one half knot. Keep tying until you have six (6). Repeat the same for Cords 4-6.

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Step 6.
Tie one square knot with cords 2-5. (Two filler cords.)

Step 7.

Repeat Steps 4, 5 & 6 until all beads are used up.

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Step 8 – Tying the last knots.

Row 1. Tie a Square Knot (SK) with Cords 1-3 and 4-6. (Only ONE filler cord.)

Row 2. Tie one SK with Cords 2-5. (TWO filler cords.)
Row 3. Tie a Square Knot (SK) with Cords 1-3 and 4-6. (Only ONE filler cord.)

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Step 9.

This finishes all knot tying and you are ready to sew up the cords to the opposite side of the elastic ponytail holder.

Take the cord ends and loop them through the ponytail holder.

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Fit the ends tight around the elastic (on the backside). Hold firmly in place and begin to stitch the ends down. Continue until you have stitched all six cords around the elastic. Trim in the back. Melt cords ends lightly to keep from fraying. Don’t burn or scorch.

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All done!! Now you can wear your headband. Congrats.

Note: This headband measures 20″ before adding the elastic holder. Adjust cord lengths to fit the size you wish to make.


Variation: If you don’t have an elastic ponytail holder, you can use a length of cord instead. Make a circle and half hitch to the circled cord. Do the same for the ending. Close the two sides by tying together. Like I did the burgundy one. (See photos)


Go here if you need help tying half knots.

http://knotworkjewelry.wordpress.com/2009/02/10/half-knot/

Tuesday’s Tutorial: How To Macrame A Headband

Today’s tutorial will show you how to make a headband with two different closures. Back 1 and Back 2.

I am using 3 1/2 mm braided macrame cord since that is what I prefer to work with for headbands, belts and purses.

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This is the headband I will make today. Like this one but with different color dice. You will have a choice of closing the back with a slide closure (Back 1) or with an elastic ponytail holder (Back 2). I have labeled the photos as such where necessary.

OK. Ready? Pick a back closure and let’s get started.


Supplies/Tools Needed

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  • 15 yards of 3 1/2mm braided macrame cord
  • beads or other adornments
  • macrame board or covered ceiling tile
  • T-pins
  • ruler/tape measure/yardstick
  • scissors
  • large hole steel embroidery needle
  • ponytail elastic (the thicker, stiffer kind) for Back 2

Directions To Make Macrame Headband (2 closures)

Step 1.

Cut 2 cords 4 yards in length.
Cut 2 cords 3 1/2 yards in length.

Step 2.

Find the center of the two 4 yard cords and mount to macrame board using T-pins.

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Row 1. Tie one Square Knot (SK) with these cords.

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  • Back 1: Leave 1/4″ loops at the top of SK. Don’t pull all the way down.
  • Back 2: Pull down tight on the top to eliminate any loops formed.

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Step 3.

Working with the two 3 1/2 yard cords, measure down 44″ on one side and mount one cord to the left of the SK created in Step 2. Long side on the end. Repeat for the second cord but mount it to the right side of the SK on the macrame board. Long side on the end.

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Row 2. Tie a SK with the 4 cords on the right and a SK with the 4 cords on the left. Number cords 1-8.

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For Back 2, place one end of the ponytail holder UNDER Cords 4 & 5. See photo for assistance.

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Step 4 – Rows 3 through 22 .

Continue tying square knots, alternating between one SK and two SK’s. Row 3=1 SK. Row 4=2 SK’s. Etc. Until you have 22 rows of Alternating Square Knots.

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The last row in this step should have TWO square knots.


Step 5.

Add a dice/bead to Cords 4 & 5.

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Tie 3 rows of alternating square knots under the dice/bead.

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Repeat until six (6) dice/beads have been added.

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Step 6.

Continue alternating rows of square knots, beginning with 2 SK’s under the last dice/bead. Next row, 1 SK, Next row, 2 SK’s. Repeat until you have 22 rows of ASK’s for Back 1 and 21 rows of ASK’s for Back 2.


Step 7 – The Back Closure.

This step shows you two different ways to close up the back. Cords 4 & 5 slide to close for Back 1. Cords 4 & 5 loop around the ponytail holder for Back 2.

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Back 1 Closure. Slide Cords 5 & 6 through the loops created at the top in Step 2. Pull on cords to open and close the back.

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Back 2 Closure. Flip your work so you are working on the underside. Tie one square knot with Cords 3-6 to secure ponytail holder. See photo for assistance.

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Step 8 – Burying Tail Cords.

This completes all knot tying. This next step is the hard part. It probably takes just as long as the knot tying. BUT for a finished look, the extra cords need to be BURIED into the knotwork.

You want to be careful to always go up through a knot to “catch” the cord. You don’t want to undo your knotwork and pull the knot out. Refer to photos for assistance. Work each cord upwards of the knotwork. One cord at a time. You can decide how far to go up. The further up, the better secure the back will be.

Flip your work. You will be working on the backside.


Step 9. Back 2 Closure.

All 8 cords need to be buried. I always start with Cord 5 (not sure why, I just do). Pull Cord 5 through opening of large-hole embroidery needle.

Burying Cord 5.

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Burying Cord 4.

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5 cords buried.

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All 8 cords buried.

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Pull up tight to smooth out. Trim cords close to the knots.

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Step 10. Back 1 Closure.

Bury only Cords 1-3 and 6-8. Cords 4 & 5 are used to slide close the back.

Basically you will follow the same steps as for Back 2, just have two fewer cords to bury.

Burying Cord 7.

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Burying Cord 1.

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6 cords buried.

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Pull up tight to smooth out. Trim cords close to the knots.

Tie overhand knots in Cords 4 & 5, trim ends. Slide to open and close.

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ALL DONE!! Enjoy.

Here’s a photo of both headbands. Completed length for both is 20″.

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Tuesday’s Tutorial: “Cross-Over” Macrame Belt

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Today’s tutorial teaches you a technique for closing the open holes along the outer edges. This one is EASY!! You will be able to take this design and create your own belts.

AND you aren’t limited to just belts. The crossover can be worked into any macrame project for a different look. I am using this method for some of my headbands.

I also used it when creating the black belt I made. It is just wider. I used more cords.


Supplies/Tools Needed

  • 28 yards of 3 1/2mm braided macrame cord
  • 1″ – 1 1/4″ round button
  • 8 small beads for tail cords (optional)
  • macrame board or covered ceiling tile
  • T-Pins
  • tape measure/ruler/yardstick
  • scissors
  • needle/thread to sew on button

Directions to Make Cross-Over Macrame Belt

Step 1.

Cut 2 cords 6 1/2 yards long.
Cut 2 cords 7 1/2 yards long.

Step 2.

Find the centers of the two 6 1/2 yard cords and pin side by side to macrame board.

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Tie one Square Knot (SK). Push knot up close to the top. Pull down on the filler (center) cords to eliminate any loops formed at the top.

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Step 3.

Find the centers of the 7 1/2 yard cords and pin one cord to the left side of SK created in Step 2 and one cord to the right side.

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Tie a SK with the 4 left cords and one SK with the 4 right cords. Number cords 1-8.

Step 4. Tie SK with cords 3-6.

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Step 5. The Cross-Over Step.

Take Cord 1 and CROSSOVER cord 2. Using Cords 2, 1, 3 & 4–tie a SK.

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Take Cord 8 and CROSSOVER cord 7. Using Cords 5,6, 8 and 7–tie a SK.

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Step 6.

Repeat Steps 4 and 5 until you reach the desired waist length. The last row, before starting the buttonhole, should have ONE square knot.

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Step 7. Buttonhole.

Divide cords into two groups of four. Tie 5 SK sennet (tie one SK right after the other in a vertical row) with Cords 1-4. Repeat for Cords 5-8. Tie one SK with Cords 3-6.

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Step 8. Tie one large SK using Cords 1-2 as left tying cords, Cords 3-6 as filler (the middle) and Cords 7-8 as right tying cords.

Step 9. Tails.

Decide the length desired for the tail cords. Cut cords, string a small bead to each cord or every other cord. Tie an overhand knot in the tail ends. Trim cord close to the tip. Melt cord to keep from fraying with matches or lighter. Hold fire to tip a nanosecond so you don’t burn or scorch the cord.

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Step 10.

Line up buttonhole to the front end of belt. Determine placement of button. Sew on button.

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All done. Finished!! Ready to wear your belt. You could also wear this around your neck as a necklace. Two for one. Pretty neat, huh!!

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Note: Cord length used for this belt yielded 34″ BEFORE the buttonhole. Total belt length with tails is 45″. Cut cord shorter or longer to obtain the desired waist length.

(Sorry pictures are a bit fuzzy.)

Tuesday’s Tutorial: Hootie Macrame Belt

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Today’s tutorial is another macrame belt.  I named this belt Hootie.  It reminds me of an owl’s face.  I have been making lots of belts lately and really like this design. Even though it features the dreaded DDHH.

DDHH=Diagonal Double Half Hitch.

I don’t know why I am not fond of this knot. It is easy to make. It is not hard on my hands. I think it could be because I like to go for perfection. And with this knot, I don’t always get it right the first time. I stare at each one for a few seconds.  And then redo about every fifth one.  So… that could be why I don’t work with them much.

But, that said, I am going to show you how to make them anyway. Maybe you will like them. If you plan to go into micro-macrame jewelry you will need to know DHH. A lot of the patterns use them.

Let’s get started.

You will need.

  • 32 yards of 3 1/2mm braided macrame cord
  • 5-8 beads (depending on # of DDHH sections)  measuring 3/8″ up to 1/2″
  • 8 additional small beads for the tail cords (optional)
  • macrame board or covered ceiling tile
  • T-pins
  • scissors
  • yard stick, tape measure or ruler

Directions to make Hootie Macrame Belt.

Step 1. Cut eight 4 yard cords.

Step 2.
Find the center of each cord and pin the centers side by side vertically on the macrame board. You will work bottom half of the belt first. Number cords 1-8.

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Step 3.

  • Row 1:  Tie one Square Knot with cords 3-6.
  • Row 2:  Tie 2 Square Knots (SK) with cords 1-4 and 5-8.
  • Rows 3-10:  Repeat Rows 1 & 2 four times.
  • Row 11:  Tie one SK with cords 3-6.

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Step 4.
You will tie Diagonal Double Half Hitch knots (DDHH) in this step. Using a T-pin, pin Cord 1 diagonally to board.

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Cord 1 will be the right diagonal anchor cord and you will double half hitch cords 2 through 4 onto it. Begin with Cord 2. Refer to photo for assistance, as needed.

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Now, do the same on the right side, using Cord 8 as the left diagonal anchor cord. Double half hitch cords 5 through 7 onto it. Begin with Cord 7 and work down.

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Step 5.
Next, you will shape the “face” of the owl. With Cords 1-3 (only one filler cord), tie a sennet of 4 SK’s. One after the other in a vertical row. Repeat for Cords 6-8.

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Add one bead (no larger than 1/2″) to Cords 4-5. See photo. (Renumber cords in your head. No need to remark them.)

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Step 6.
In this step, you will tie more DDHH’s but using different anchor holding cords. Pin Cord 4 diagonally left to board. Double half hitch cords 1-3 onto it. Begin with Cord 3.

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Now, do the same on the right side, using Cord 5 as the right diagonal anchor cord. Pin Cord 5 diagonally right to board. Double half hitch Cords 6-8 onto it. Begin with Cord 6 and work down.

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Step 7.
Repeat Steps 3 through 6 until you reach the length desired OR until you are about 14″ from the shortest cord. Last row should have only ONE SQUARE KNOT.

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Step 8.
Tie one large SK using Cords 1-2 on the left as tying cords, 3 through 6 as fillers, and 7-8 as right tying cords. Repeat twice more for a total of 3 large SK’s.

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Step 9.
The Tail. Determine how long you wish the tail to be. You should have about 12″ to work with. Cut the ends even or stagger.

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Add one small bead to every other cord. Tie an overhand knot at the tip of each 8 cords. Trim close to the knot. Melt cords to keep from fraying. Touch cord lightly with match or lighter. Do not burn or scorch.

Step 10.
You are finished with the bottom half of the belt and now ready to work the top half. Unpin belt from board. Reverse directions.

When you first started this belt, you tied one SK with Cords 3-6. Locate this knot and BEGIN WITH STEP 4.

Next work Step 5 and Step 6.
Now go to Step 7.

Make the same number of sections to match the upper half OR until you are about 14″ from the shortest cord. Last row should have only ONE SQUARE KNOT.

Repeat Steps 8 and 9.

Done!!  Congrats. You can now wear your belt.

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Notes: Variations of this belt are endless. You can tie fewer SK rows in between the Hootie faces.

You can add as many Hootie faces as you wish.

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You can add a belt buckle instead of tying in the front.

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Add more beads, less beads. Or you can go completely without beads. Be creative and make this pattern your own.


Measurements and Cord Length:

  • Lavender belt measures 30″ from Large SK to Large SK. Total length (including tail) end-to-end is 60″.
  • Burgundy belt measures 36″ from Large SK to Large SK. Total length end-to-end is 62″.
  • Turquoise belt measures 40″.

Cutting 4 yard cords works for all of these. Or you can experiment with shorter cord lengths, as desired.